Русский ремесленник

Embroidery - well-known and popular needlework art to adorn a variety of patterns all kinds of fabrics and materials, from very coarse and dense, such as: cloth, canvas, leather, tree bark, the finest fabrics - batiste, muslin, gas, tulle, etc.

Definition
In the Great Soviet Encyclopedia of embroidery said:
Embroidery, a widespread form of decorative art in which the pattern and the image is carried out manually (with a needle, sometimes hook) or through the embroidery machine in various tissues, skin, felt or other material of linen, cotton, wool, silk (often colored) threads, as well as hair, beads, pearls, precious stones, sequins, coins, etc. For embroidered appliqu?s (a kind of embroidery, often with raised seam) used fabric, fur, felt, leather. Embroidery is used to decorate clothing, household items, to create a separate decorative panels.

Infinitely varied types of joints:

• For «blind» embroidery, that is, on the whole tissue, characterized by a cross, satin, set, painting, tambour, etc.;
• For «lines», ie the embroidery on fabric with pre-cut or pulled off on some of its stations filaments - openwork, «woven», flooring, lace, etc.

Applied either separately or in various combinations with each other, they allow you to create embroidery from completely flat to convex, from the lightest outline, or openwork mesh ( «lace») to «carpet», densely harboring the entire surface. Figure with geometric shapes is performed mainly Counting embroidery (thread-count linens), and curvilinear figure - «free» embroidery (on the injury pre contour).

The main expressive means of embroidery as an art form:

• Identification of the aesthetic properties of the material (iridescent sheen of silk, smooth shimmer linen, shining gold, sequins, stones, fuzziness and dull hair, etc.);
• Use the properties of lines and color patches embroidery pattern additionally affect rhythmically clear or capriciously, the free play of seams;
• Effects derived from a combination of pattern and image with the background (with a cloth or other basis), relatives or contrasting embroidery on the texture and color ....

History
A passion for decorating themselves and their clothing to distinguish something from the environment, inherent in human nature, even in a primitive, half-savage her condition, for example, the Red Indians blankets adorn various embroideries; Lapp on their clothes from buckskin embroidered most variety of patterns. Embroidery was known in antiquity, and like many other branches of art and science, it was the cradle of the East. In Asia, this art has flourished extensively much earlier what it became known to the Greeks and Romans, although the Greeks and credited with inventing the sewing Minerva, Athena, Pallas.
The legend of Arachne, in detail transmitted in metamorphoses of Ovid, tells how her daughter dyer Idmona in the colophon, to learn from the goddess of weaving and embroidering, surpassed in this art and his teacher was calling it a race, won in large embroidery, depicting the adventures of the gods. Minerva, angered by their defeat, threw the canoe in the head rival, Arachne hung herself with grief and was the goddess transformed into a spider. In the Odyssey, refers to the embroidery and points to the great cloak Ulysses, the front part of which was richly decorated with gold embroidery. Similarly, Homer states that were brought by Paris to Troy rich embroidery of Tyrus and Sidon, already famed in those times with his art, and in III the song of the Iliad describes the lessons Helena, embroidered on a snow-white fabric of the battle because of her Trojans and the Greeks.
The more advanced the art of embroidery was borrowed by the Greeks from the Persians, when during the campaigns of Alexander of Macedon, they met with the luxury of Asian nations. Strabo describes the surprise of the Greeks in the form of clothing, covered with gold embroidery and sprinkled with precious stones and fine Indian fabrics, richly decorated with colorful embroidery. Defeated Darius, Alexander of Macedon took over his tent and went to the delight of luxurious embroidery on it, ordered a magnificent cloak skillful Cypriot. At the time of Moses, Art VI was strongly developed, especially famous for their art Ahaliab of the tribe of Dan. Apparel Aaron and his sons, during worship, consisted of cloth, dressed from a cloth embroidered with colorful designs. In the book of Exodus, we also see that the curtain hiding the Holy of Holies, was a linen cloth embroidered with crimson cherubs on it. Solomon ordered for his temple the Babylonians, was renowned for his art, the blue curtain with embroidered on it purple cherubim. Assyria and the Jews, probably borrowed from Egypt embroidery. The wide spread of embroidery in Egypt indicate preserved, although in rare cases, embroidered clothes on mummies and pictures of ancient Egyptian pharaohs in the sarcophagi and monuments.
Since the ancients were shepherds, then the first fabric and embroidery to manufacture of wool. Later on, when in Egypt were opened fiber properties of some plants, mainly hemp and flax, of them have to manufacture fabrics, which are by their whiteness, have proved particularly suitable to the splendor of religious ceremonies and for this purpose were used by all ancient peoples. Later, in India it was found cotton plant, and there began to make the finest cloth, on which was embroidered wool, paper, and, finally, with gold thread.
Some writers ascribe the invention of the Phrygians with gold embroidery. Reliably only that the Romans became acquainted with him through Attal, king of Pergamum, who died in 133 BC. e., so the first gold embroidery were called attalinskih, but as the art of performance the best embroidery in general were the Phrygian, the Romans called all the embroidery «phrygionae», and Embroidery - «phrygio». The first, which appeared in Rome in the gold-embroidered clothes, was, according to Dennis Halicarnassus, Tarquinius Ancient. In general, the passion for the rich embroideries quickly spread to Greece and Rome and reached such monstrous proportions that it is often being made by the Government have been attempts to ban or at least reduce the number of insane luxury, but to no avail. Even before that, the ancient Asian nations, this passion for the rich embroideries were so developed that against it often encountered strong protests, so, for example. Prophet Hezekiah condemned women of her time for their insane luxury in jewelry and embroidery. Silk, coming from China, has become known in the West much later, though, Aristotle, and refers to the worm, changing three times, and the silk yarn, but it's just extraordinary fact, and most likely that even in the East, Persia, India, Egypt with silk met shortly before Christmas. In Rome, he first appeared at the time of Julius Caesar: Virgil first says silk, but the Emperor Tiberias silk was considered a great rarity and cost is extremely expensive. Since the Chinese zealously guarded the export to other countries, silk worms, the Emperor Justinian, in order to get them, had to resort to a ruse: two monks Bogomoltsa brought him to Byzantium in their bamboo walking stick a few worms, since breeding silkworms and silk production was spread rapidly, first in Asia Minor, and later in southern Europe. In general, when the Byzantine art of kings V. reached high degree of perfection, as in wealth, and on execution. Embroideries not only cover clothing, but with a peculiar luxury embroidered harness and saddles. At the same Byzantine kings was first introduced in B. use of silver thread. It is not known whether there are ancient Byzantine embroidery VII century BC. e., it is doubtful, while in St. Petersburg, the Hermitage, stored woolen fabric with embroidered on her green and yellow palm trees, which is the product of III century of the Christian era. At Bamberg, in Bavaria, is an ancient Byzantine embroidery, found in the tomb Humbert, Bishop of Bamberg, who died in 1062.
This embroidery is of the Emperor Constantine (riding on a white horse), who worship the West and East in the face of two women's house, bringing to it - a war helmet, the other a laurel wreath. When in the VII century, rapidly spreading Islam was severely beaten the might of the Byzantine Empire, it did not affect the further development and prosperity of the art embroidery. On the contrary, the luxury caliph in this regard reached fabulous proportions: not only clothes, harness and saddles, and boots and sheath swords were richly decorated with embroidery. Among the gifts sent by Harun al-Rashid to Charlemagne, was richly embroidered tent. In France, even before that, thanks to install a part of trade relations with the Greek colonies, the art of embroidery has spread rapidly, but the first scenes of embroidery were almost exclusively drawn from Holy Scripture. Charlemagne, who loved himself sumptuously dressed, gave a strong impetus to the further development of this art. In his court all women, starting with his wife Bertha, and his daughters, were skilled embroideresses. His sister is his Gizella founded several monasteries in Provence and Aquitaine, where he taught all sorts of handmade work. Between the remarkable embroidery is particularly well known, stored in a museum in Bayeux (Bayeux), big and clever, though naive in execution, embroidery Mathilde, wife of William the Conqueror, showing all the episodes of the Norman conquest of England by Duke. In England prior to the art of Vladimir was on a high degree of perfection, in the VII century prioress of the Monastery of St.. Aethelred was presented to the Bishop of St rich embroidery. Cuthbert. At the flag, accompanied Alfred the Great in all its battles, embroidered with a beautiful Danish Princess crows, and Edzhita, wife of Edward the Confessor, was known in England as a skilful embroiderer. England is an art passed into Germany, where he soon gained wide use. St. Henry was a special admirer of good embroidery, and Gizella, the wife of the King of Hungary, St.. Stephen, arranged near his palace, workshops for weaving and embroidery, was invented here, so-called Hungarian stitch, in which the entire background embroidered zigzags. The Crusades, acquainted the inhabitants of Western Europe with the magnificence of the East, many have contributed to the wide dissemination of rich embroidery, as borrowed from Byzantine models, so to have Muslims in particular interest in this art in the monasteries, and as noble ladies, shut up in castles during campaigns and knights adventures of their spouses, VA dedicated his spare time. Established trade relations of Venice, Genoa and other Italian cities with Asian nations to quickly re-developed taste for the rich decorations in the countries of southern Europe. Especially famous for their embroidery Milan, Luka, Venetian and Genoese. In the Renaissance, when, with the magnificence of the court of Lorenzo de 'Medici, was given a strong impetus to the development of all the arts and the Arts, VA along with other has reached a high degree of perfection, the best artists doing drawings for B. and myself Rafael interested in this art. The Spaniards, in imitation of the Italians, also made a lot of art in embroidery, evidenced by some of the embroidered pictures and stitch with a sacred purpose, preserved in many museums and collections.
Between them particularly remarkable painting, depicting Adam and Eve in the Cluny museum and the church naloy, presented to Charles V Holy Monastery. Justa (St. Just), where he retired in the last years of his life and where he died in 1558, this embroidery is in the collection Spitzen. It should be noted that for a long time in one of Saxony was performed with a white embroidery thread on white fabric (broderie blanche), which is now so common everywhere, especially in western Europe. In other states almost exclusively embroidered on cloth or silk with gold, silver, woolen and silk threads. Note that in addition, many famous women in France were skilled embroideresses: Catherine de 'Medici, surrounded by her daughters, their cousins of Guise and Mary Queen of Scots spent their leisure in needlework classes. Madame de Maintenon was so fond of embroidery, even during a walk in the carriage, everywhere one could see her work in hand, she also introduced the teaching of this art in a women's school, St.-Syr, it is based, when the school was under its direct superintendence, VA it was particularly revered. Even Marie Antoinette is also a lot of embroidery, especially on the small outline stitch (au petit point).
First designs for embroidery were passed from hand to hand and copied by the embroideresses that it was often great difficulty and after the invention of printing patterns have become more widely available, they are collected and published in special books for this purpose. The first collection of this kind was published in Cologne in 1527 by Peter Quint (Pierre Quinty). In the search for new models for embroidery draughtsmen tried to approach closer to nature and learn all the nuances of flowers and plants. Noticing this, a man named Robin Jean (Jean Robin) even think to arrange a special garden for this purpose and was there to plant a variety of outlandish and rare plants. His idea was a huge success and soon its floral institution was purchased by Henry IV and standing membership of the Government, was called «the royal garden». In 1626 scientist Guy de la Bross (Guy de la Bross) came to a happy thought to use the garden with its numerous plants for scientific study of medical students. Thus was founded the first botanical gardens (Jardin des Plantes), with its Museum of Natural Sciences: embroidery indirectly provided assistance and service to science.

Types of embroidery
* Application
* Cross-stitch
* Embroidery
* Embroidery Richelieu (openwork embroidery)
* Izonit
* Embroidery tape
* Embroidery silk
* Embroidery gold (gold thread)
* Intricate beading

Method embroidery
* Machine Embroidery
* Hand Embroidery

Machine embroidery
For some time manual labor for simple embroidery almost entirely supplanted by machine sewing. Embroidery machine first appeared in France in 1821, but the name of the inventor remains unknown, and never left any information about its mechanism. 4 years later, the Barthelemy Timon d'Amplepi (Barthelemy Thimonnier d'Amplepis) invented another machine, which is still not proved udoboprimenimoy for wide production. Finally, at the French exhibition in 1854 appeared the car Heilmann, who instituted the universal admiration and produced a revolution in the production of embroidery. Since then, in the car, Heilmann was done a few minor changes, of which the most successful invented city of Nancy Barbo Schmitz, but the idea in principle and mechanism of the machine, Heilmann remained the same. Without a doubt, machine embroidery can only be applied to not very complex patterns in order to stitch could be widely available and widely distributed, otherwise the cost of introducing new picture is so great that they could not be paid. Many still prefer the manual MV, finding that it and the stronger and more beautiful, that is, art as imagination embroiders, not constrained by the narrow limits of machine production, is full play. Here we should mention, that in the late 1880's in Western Europe, especially France, were widely disseminated by Russian well-known embroidery designs, with the cockerels, horses, etc., etc.. figures, embroiders red, blue and yellow thread on white fabric. Clothes with similar embroidery in 1890 and 1891 years. could be found often in Paris for women in Parliament, and especially young ladies and children. A detailed description of various ways of embroidery can be found in «Course of women's needlework» (ed. magazine «Bulletin Maude»). This is actually remake or even primarily a French translation of the book: «Encyclopedie des ouvrages de dames», p. Th. Delmont. Images also reprinted in this book.