Русский ремесленник

Beading today is widely used due to accessibility and diversity of contemporary beads, glass beads, beads. In addition, beadwork truly opens up unlimited opportunities for lovers of needlework.

Particularly popular were various decorations of beads and bugles. Nobody will leave indifferent unique necklaces, earrings, clips, geytany, pendants, bracelets, hairpins, made of beads.

The history of beads go into the distant past. Magnificent for its decorative qualities of the material has attracted the attention of masters from time immemorial. Glass beads - the immediate predecessors beads - decorated clothing of ancient Egyptian pharaohs. The nomadic tribes of the Sarmatians and Scythians are a few centuries before Christ wore clothes and shoes, trimmed with beads.

Not overlooked beads and Russia. The first information on its use in the decoration of clothing belong to the IX-XII centuries. By the same date from the period and burial in Latvia, which were found cloth wreaths, decorated with bronze spirals and beads.

For several centuries the only production center bead in Europe was the Republic of Venice. Before that he produced in the glass workshops in Germany and Gaul, from these places, it has removed to Byzantium, and from Byzantium to Venice.

The first attempt to create a bead production in Russia dates to the end of the XVII century. In 1670-1680 years in the court village Izmailovo with the assistance of the Venetian masters organized a workshop for their manufacture. But to establish mass production of domestic beads then failed. Beads and glass continued to import from abroad. His purchases increased steadily: in 1748 only through the St. Petersburg port in the country was imported 472 pounds of beads, then four years later, 2,126 pounds already. However, the deficit on the beads was still significant. Therefore, MV Lomonosov, who owned a perfect technique of manufacture of smalt - colored opaque glass commonly used in the mosaic panels, has decided to expand in Russia, one more line steklodelaniya - making beads.

By decree of the Senate he was given a grant of $ 4 thousand and the land on which planned to place glass production. The factory was established in 1754 in Ust-Ruditsi. Its first products appeared a year later. Lomonosov constantly improve the technology for making beads, developed new equipment, and in 1670 the number of manufactured beads and beads significantly increased. Glass factory in Ust-Ruditsi lasted until 1765, but after the death of Lomonosov production was minimized and the factory was closed. Need for beads continued to be met by supply from Bohemia and Venice.

In the second half of the XIX century, mainly in the Moscow region, arose many small glass workshops, which make beads. But artisanal production was very low quality, it could not meet the demand for this material. Only in 1883 in Odessa, glass factory opened YB Ronigera, which was established to offer high quality, competitive products. However oust foreign producers beads with Russia's market has not succeeded, and at this time.

Beads and glass beads are usually perceived as a material for women's jewelry, small household items and decorative purposes. But the glass grains used for interior finishing. Thus, according to well-known Russian historian IE Zabelin in some rooms of the Moscow Kremlin walls kleysterovali flour or glue on the ground and poured glass beads ... In 1689 in a room of Queen Natalia Kirillovna walls are covered with cloth and chalk vygruntovany ... and sprinkled with glass beads on the green earth. "

For many people the elements of Russia empire dress, decorated with beads, have become an integral part of national costume. Women's clothing north and south of Russia was significantly different from each other. In northern and central provinces were based costume shirt, dress and kokoshnik - word of mouth set of clothes, and in the south was distributed more archaic - ponevny consisting of shirts, skirts and "Magpie". However, in all types of folk costumes diversity and richness of decoration distinguished women's and girls' hats. Women differed from the girls' dresses that completely concealed the hair, because, according to the ancient Slavic custom, a woman should not appear in public bareheaded.

Pronounced regional characteristics of the female costume were manifested not only in the cut, but in the way of his finishing. Kokoshnik and other elements of women's peasant clothing northern provinces were richly decorated with small freshwater pearls, golden embroidery, glass in metal frame. The wide spread of pearl embroidery contributed to the relative accessibility of the material. Freshwater pearl mussels in abundance vodilis in the northern rivers and lakes Ilmen and larger pearls were taken from in-Kafa (Feodosia).

Pearl embroidery known in Russia since the X century. For centuries pearls off with vestments, shoes and clothing, hats and jewelry. Since the middle of the XVIII century in folk costume, along with Zhem-chugom were used and beads. Techniques of working with beads, used in the folk art of the Russian North and the Volga region, is not much different from the traditional methods of pearl embroidery. When decorating products pearls are usually stacked on top of a previously-wound cotton cord (sewing on cord) or on top of hemp or cotton yarn in white (embroidery on the whites), thereby rising above the plane of tissue. Connecting to one composition of large and small pearly grains stressed the salience of the image.